The Crochet Back Hugger is a shrug style shawl designed to sit neatly across the back and wrap around the shoulders with fitted sleeves that keep it in place. It has the comfort of a shawl but the practicality of a shrug, so it will not slide off while you move. This design is built in one main piece, starting with a ribbed back band for stretch and structure, then growing into a textured back panel using a simple two row repeat. After the back reaches the right length, the center stitches are left open for the neck, and each side becomes a sleeve section.
Crochet Back Hugger
What makes this crochet Back Hugger especially wearable is the balance between stretch and drape. The ribbing hugs gently, the half double crochet sections keep it soft, and the crossed stitch row adds a modern texture without being hard to memorize. You can customize the fit by adjusting the starting chain, the total back length, the width left for the neck opening, and the sleeve length. You can also change the yarn to make it lighter for spring or thicker for winter, while keeping the same construction.
Materials
- Medium weight yarn approximately 198 g or 324 m
- 5.0 mm crochet hook
- 2 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle and scissors
Abbreviations
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- sc = single crochet
- fpdc = front post double crochet
- bpdc = back post double crochet
- st = stitch
- sp = space
- rep = repeat
Notes and Fit Guide
- The Back Hugger is worked flat in rows.
- The back begins with ribbing worked across the full width.
- The main body uses a two row repeat that alternates a plain hdc row and a crossed stitch row.
- The neck opening is created by skipping the center stitches and working the two outer sections separately.
- Sleeve length is measured from the start of the neck shaping down to the sleeve cuff ribbing.
- If you want a wider back, start with more chains, but keep the number even if you plan to use the crossed stitch row easily.
- If you add one stitch when switching to the body, keep that in mind when you place stitch markers later.
Stitch Details
Ribbing Stitch Pattern
- Ribbing is made by alternating fpdc and bpdc across the row after the first dc setup row.
- This creates stretch and a clean banded look.
Crossed Stitch Row
- The crossed stitch is made using hdc.
- The repeat crosses one skipped stitch by working into it after placing stitches into the next two stitches.
- This forms a subtle twist texture that looks more complex than it is.
Back Ribbing
Foundation
- Make a slip knot and ch 78.
- Check that the chain reaches your desired back width.
- Add or subtract chains here if you want a different width, but keep notes of your final count.
Row 1 Setup
- Ch 2 more.
- Dc in the 3rd ch from the hook.
- Dc in each ch across.
- Confirm you have 78 dc total in the row.
Row 2 Begin Ribbing
- Ch 2 and turn.
- Work fpdc around the first dc.
- Work bpdc around the next dc.
- Continue alternating fpdc and bpdc across the row.
- End the row with the correct post stitch to match the alternating pattern.
Ribbing Repeat
- Ch 2 and turn.
- Continue alternating fpdc and bpdc across each row.
- Keep your tension steady so the ribbing stays elastic.
- Rep these ribbing rows until the section measures about 3.5 inches or 8.5 cm.
Transition to Main Body Back Panel
Body Row 1 Plain HDC Row
- Ch 2 and turn.
- Hdc in each st across.
- Optional adjustment used in the video: increase 1 stitch somewhere along this row so the total becomes 79 sts.
- If you increase, do it smoothly by placing 2 hdc into one stitch near the center.
- Note your final stitch count because it affects neck marking later.
Body Row 2 Crossed Stitch Row
- Ch 2 and turn.
- Hdc in the first st.
- Skip the next st.
- Hdc in the next 2 sts.
- Hdc into the skipped st by working back into it.
- Rep this sequence across the row.
- Finish the last few stitches by keeping the crossing pattern consistent and avoiding extra skips.
Main Body Repeat
- Rep Body Row 1 and Body Row 2 as a two row repeat.
- Measure your work from the very beginning of the back ribbing.
- Continue until the total length reaches 18 to 19 inches.
- Stop after completing whichever row keeps your edges neat and consistent for the next step.
Mark the Neck Opening
- Lay your back panel flat with the right side facing up.
- From the right edge, count 29 sts inward and place a stitch marker.
- From the left edge, count 29 sts inward and place a stitch marker.
- Confirm the number of sts between markers is 21 sts for the neck opening.
- If your stitch count is different because of width changes or the extra stitch, adjust these numbers while keeping the neck opening centered.
- The goal is two equal side sections for sleeves and a centered gap for the neck.
First Sleeve Section
Row 1 Work to First Marker
- Ch 2 and turn.
- Work the established pattern across only the first side section up to the stitch marker.
- Do not work into the neck opening stitches.
- Turn your work at the marker.
Neck Edge Decreases
- On the next row, work the established pattern.
- At the neck edge, decrease 1 stitch by working a hdc2tog in the last 2 stitches near the neck edge.
- Turn.
- Repeat this decrease again on the following row at the neck edge.
- After two decrease rows, you should have 27 stitches for the sleeve section.
Continue Sleeve Length
- Continue working the established two row body pattern on these 27 stitches only.
- Keep the neck edge straight and clean by placing your last stitch firmly at the edge.
- Measure from the point where the neck shaping began.
- Continue until this sleeve section measures 24 inches.
Sleeve Cuff Preparation
- Work one full row of hdc across to create a neat base for ribbing.
- Make sure the edge is even and not pulling in.
Sleeve Ribbing
- Ch 2 and turn.
- Work fpdc around the first stitch.
- Work bpdc around the next stitch.
- Alternate fpdc and bpdc across the row.
- Ch 2 and turn.
- Rep the ribbing row until the cuff ribbing measures about 3 inches.
- Keep ribbing tension slightly snug for a fitted cuff.
- Fasten off and leave a tail for weaving in.
Second Sleeve Section
Attach Yarn
- With the right side facing, attach yarn at the outer edge of the unworked side section.
- Join with a slip stitch or start with a standing stitch if you prefer.
Work to Second Marker
- Ch 2 and work the established pattern across the second side section only.
- Stop at the stitch marker.
- Do not work the neck opening stitches.
- Turn.
Neck Edge Decreases
- Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge for the next two rows.
- Use hdc2tog near the neck edge to keep the shaping smooth.
- Confirm you have 27 stitches remaining.
Continue Sleeve Length
- Continue the established two row repeat on these 27 stitches.
- Measure from the start of the neck shaping.
- Continue until this sleeve section measures 24 inches.
Sleeve Ribbing
- Work one row of hdc across.
- Begin fpdc and bpdc ribbing across.
- Rep ribbing rows until the cuff measures 3 inches.
- Fasten off and weave in the tail later.
Finishing and Edging
Inner Edge Border
- Attach yarn anywhere along the inner opening edge.
- Sc evenly around the entire inner opening including the neck and inner sleeve edges.
- Along row ends, work about 3 sc for every 2 rows to keep the border flat.
- Add or skip a stitch as needed to prevent rippling or pulling.
- Join with a slip stitch to the first sc of the round.
- Fasten off if you want to keep borders separate, or continue directly to the outer edge.
Outer Edge Border
- Attach yarn to the outer edge if needed.
- Sc evenly around the entire outer perimeter of the Back Hugger.
- Work evenly around corners by placing 2 or 3 sc in corner areas if the edge begins to curl.
- Keep the border consistent so it frames the garment cleanly.
- Join to the first sc with a slip stitch.
- Fasten off.
Final Steps
- Weave in all ends securely.
- Stretch and shape the piece gently to open the texture and even the edges.
- If desired, lightly block to improve drape and smooth the ribbing transitions.
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