Free Crochet Bikini Top Pattern Made Using Sport Weight Yarn

This made to measure crochet bikini top pattern is built around a clean cup shape that you size to your own body measurements, so it’s easy to adjust coverage without guessing stitch counts for standard sizes. You’ll crochet each cup from a small foundation and grow it with a centered increase, then add a mesh row and a shell border for a light, decorative finish.

Crochet Bikini Top

The straps are worked as chain loop cords that you thicken for comfort, and a long tie strap weaves through the mesh to connect both cups and create an adjustable back closure. The result is a simple crochet bikini top you can wear for summer, layering, or festival styling, with flexible fit options for strap length, cup height, and spacing between cups.

Materials

• Sport weight yarn size 2
• 2 mm crochet hook
• 2.5 mm crochet hook optional for long straps
• Stitch marker
• Scissors
• Yarn needle
• Measuring tape

Stitch Abbreviations

• ch chain
• sl st slip stitch
• sc single crochet
• dc double crochet

Notes Before You Start

• This is a made to measure pattern, so you will use your measurements to decide the starting chain and the number of cup rows
• The cup grows because you repeat a five double crochet increase in the center stitch every row
• The foundation chain is worked around, meaning you crochet along one side of the chain and then continue along the other side
• If your stitches look loose or gappy in the cup, keep the 2 mm hook and tighten your tension slightly
• If your yarn splits easily, slow down on the five dc increase and insert the hook cleanly under the correct loops

Fit And Measuring Guide

• Measure from your underbust line straight up to your nipple to get cup height
• Measure across your breast from outer edge to inner edge to get cup width
• Choose your coverage level before you begin and decide if you want a smaller triangle cup or a fuller cup
• Add more rows for more coverage and fewer rows for a smaller fit
• Plan the spacing between cups by how you weave the long tie strap through the mesh later, which makes the center adjustable

Cup Foundation Setup

• Make a slip knot
• Chain an even number that matches your underbust to nipple measurement
• Chain two more stitches for turning
• Do not join the chain into a ring because the cup begins as a flat oval worked around the chain

Cup Row 1

• Dc in the fourth chain from the hook to begin the first side of the cup
• Treat the skipped chains as the first dc
• Dc in each chain across until you reach the second to last chain
• Work five dc into the very last chain to form the top curve
• Place a stitch marker in the third dc of that five dc increase to mark the center
• Continue on the underside of the foundation chain by placing dc in each remaining chain space back toward the start
• Make sure your stitch count on the second side matches the first side so the cup stays symmetrical

Cup Row 2

• Chain three and turn
• Dc in each stitch until you reach the marked center stitch
• Work five dc into the marked center stitch
• Move the stitch marker to the third dc of the new five dc increase
• Dc in each stitch across to the end of the row
• Check that your top curve stays centered and your sides remain even

Cup Rows 3 And Up

• Chain three and turn at the start of each row
• Dc in each stitch until the marked stitch
• Work five dc into the marked stitch and move the marker to the new center
• Dc in each stitch to finish the row
• Stop when the cup width matches your side to side breast measurement
• Add one extra row if you want slightly more coverage at the outer edge

Cup Shape Check

• Fold the cup lightly in half from bottom edge to top point and confirm both sides mirror each other
• If the top point is drifting to one side, you may have placed the five dc increase into the wrong stitch, so locate the center and correct on the next row
• If the cup is ruffling at the top, your tension may be too loose on the five dc increase, so tighten slightly
• If the cup is cupping too sharply, consider one fewer row or slightly looser tension on the increase row

Bottom Mesh Row

• Turn the cup so you are working along the bottom edge
• Chain four to begin the mesh pattern, which counts as one dc plus chain one
• Skip one stitch and dc in the next stitch along the bottom edge
• Chain one, skip one stitch, dc in the next stitch
• Repeat the chain one skip one dc pattern across the entire bottom edge
• Keep the mesh consistent because this is where the long tie strap will weave through later

Bottom Shell Border Row

• Chain three and turn
• Work two dc into the first mesh space
• Sc into the next mesh space
• Work three dc into the following mesh space
• Repeat the sequence sc in next space and three dc in following space across the bottom edge
• End with dc stitches that match the shell rhythm so the border looks even

Side Lace Border Up The Cup

• Rotate the work so you are now traveling up the side edge of the cup
• Sc into the first side space
• Work three dc into the next side space
• Skip one space and sc into the next space
• Repeat the pattern three dc in next space, skip one, sc in next, up the side toward the top
• Keep your sc stitches snug so the edge does not flare outward

Top Point Transition

• When you reach the top point of the cup, remove the stitch marker
• Work two dc at the top point to finish the edging neatly
• Confirm the top point feels firm enough to hold a strap without stretching

Strap Method Overview

• The strap is made from repeating chain three loops, which creates a flexible cord
• The strap is thickened by working three sc into every loop space on the return pass
• The strap length is fully adjustable, so decide whether you want shoulder straps or neck tie straps

Strap Part 1 Chain Loop Cord

• Chain three
• Dc into the first chain you just made to form a small loop
• Repeat chain three and dc into the first chain of that chain three
• Continue until the strap reaches your desired length
• Use more repeats for a longer strap and fewer repeats for a shorter strap

Strap Part 2 Thickening Return Pass

• Chain one and turn
• Work three sc into the center of each chain loop space
• Repeat three sc into each loop space all the way back down to the cup
• Keep these sc stitches even because they determine how comfortable and sturdy the strap feels

Finish The Second Side Of The Cup Border

• Continue the same side lace border down the remaining side of the cup so both sides match
• Fasten off and weave in ends neatly along the border stitches

Make The Second Cup

• Repeat the entire cup process to make a second identical cup
• Lay the cups next to each other and confirm the height and width match
• If one cup is slightly larger, block lightly or adjust by adding one more row to the smaller cup if needed

Long Main Tie Strap

• Attach yarn and start the chain loop cord method used for straps
• Repeat chain three and dc into the first chain until you have a long strap for tying around the back
• Use a 2.5 mm hook if you want to work faster and your yarn still feels secure
• Thicken the long strap the same way by working three sc into each loop space on the return pass

Weaving And Assembly

• Place both cups with right sides facing up
• Weave the long strap through the bottom mesh spaces of the first cup
• Continue weaving through the bottom mesh spaces of the second cup
• Adjust how much strap sits between the cups to control center spacing
• Tie the strap ends at the back for an adjustable closure
• Put the top on and adjust cup spacing, strap tension, and tie tightness until secure

Customization Options

• Add more cup rows for fuller coverage
• Stop earlier for a smaller triangle style
• Make straps longer for neck tie style or shorter for fixed shoulder straps
• Add an extra mesh row at the bottom if you want more weaving room for the tie strap
• Replace the shell border with a simple sc border if you want a cleaner, minimal edge

Beginner Notes That Prevent Common Mistakes

• Always place the five dc increase into the marked center stitch only
• Always move the marker to the new middle dc after each increase row
• Count your stitches occasionally on each side to keep symmetry
• Keep mesh spaces consistent so weaving the long strap is smooth and even

Troubleshooting

• If your cup looks lopsided, you likely missed the marked stitch once, so correct by placing the next increase into the true center and continue
• If the top point has a hole, tighten the five dc increase and ensure you are not skipping stitches near the center
• If the bottom edge curls, your shell border may be too tight, so loosen tension or use a slightly larger hook for the border only
• If straps stretch too much, thicken with an extra sc round or use tighter tension on the three sc per loop return pass
• If the cups gap at the center, weave the strap with less space between cups or tie slightly tighter