This granny square top crochet pattern is designed for a clean, modern fit while keeping the classic granny square look everyone loves. You’ll make full granny squares for the body and half granny squares to shape the top edge, then join everything using a flat slip stitch seam that lays neat and smooth. After assembly, you’ll add an easy two round edge finish to stabilize the fabric and give it a polished border.
Crochet Granny Square Top
The long straps create a flattering lace up back, which makes the top adjustable and comfortable across different body shapes. You can keep it simple in one color, make it scrappy with leftover yarn, or plan color sequences for a high impact look.
Notes
- This top is constructed from motifs, then joined, then finished with an edging and straps
- The written instructions match the method in the provided pattern text, without timestamps
- The square size can be adjusted by adding or removing rounds to change fit
- Keep your tension consistent across all squares so the final top lays flat
Abbreviations
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- sp: space
Stitch Guide
- Granny corner: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) worked into the same corner space
- Granny side cluster: 3 dc worked into a side space between corners
- Flat slip stitch join: sl st through back loop of motif A and back loop of motif B to form a flatter seam
Sizing and Fit Planning
- This design is adjustable because the back is laced
- Width is controlled by how many full squares you place across the front and sides
- Length is controlled by how many rows of squares you stack downward
- Cup coverage is controlled by the placement of half squares at the top edge and how tight you lace the back
How to Choose Your Size Without Complicated Math
- Measure around your bust at the fullest point
- Decide how fitted you want the top
- Snug fit: plan motif width close to bust measurement minus 2 to 5 cm because lace up back expands
- Regular fit: plan motif width close to bust measurement
- Relaxed fit: plan motif width 2 to 6 cm more than bust measurement
- Measure one finished full granny square after round 4
- Divide your planned top width by your square width to estimate how many squares you need across
- If your squares come out larger or smaller than expected, adjust hook size or add or remove a round
Color Planning Options
- Option 1: Solid color squares for a clean minimal look
- Option 2: 4 round color changes for a classic granny style
- Option 3: Scrappy squares using different colors each round
- Option 4: Make 4 variations of the same palette and rotate them for a balanced layout
Full Granny Square
Make 20 full granny squares total.
Round 1
- Make a magic ring
- Ch 2
- Work 2 dc into the ring
- Ch 2
- Work 3 dc into the ring
- Repeat the following two more times
- Ch 2
- Work 3 dc into the ring
- You should now have 4 clusters of 3 dc separated by ch 2 spaces
- Join with a sl st to the top of the starting ch 2
- Pull the ring tail tight to close the center
Round 2
- Attach a new color in any corner space
- Ch 2
- Work 2 dc into the same corner space
- Ch 2
- Work 3 dc into the same corner space to complete the first corner
- Without chaining between corners, move to the next corner space
- In each corner space around, work the following
- 3 dc
- Ch 2
- 3 dc
- Join with a sl st to the top of the starting ch 2
For Round 3
- Attach a new color in any corner space
- In the corner space work
- 3 dc
- Ch 2
- 3 dc
- In the next side space between corners work
- 3 dc
- In the next corner space work
- 3 dc
- Ch 2
- 3 dc
- Continue around repeating
- 3 dc in each side space
- 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in each corner space
- Join with a sl st to the top of the starting ch 2
Round 4
- Attach the final color in any corner space
- In the corner space work
- 3 dc
- Ch 2
- 3 dc
- Work 3 dc into each side space along the edge
- You will have two side spaces per side on this round
- In each corner space work
- 3 dc
- Ch 2
- 3 dc
- Continue around
- Join with a sl st to the top of the starting ch 2
- Fasten off and weave in ends neatly
Half Granny Square
Make 6 half granny squares total.
Row 1
- Make a magic ring
- Ch 4
- Work 3 dc into the ring
- Ch 2
- Work 3 dc into the ring
- Ch 2
- Work 1 dc into the ring
- Pull the ring tail tight to close the center
Row 2
- Turn your work
- Ch 4
- In the first ch 2 space work
- 3 dc
- In the center corner ch 2 space work
- 3 dc
- Ch 2
- 3 dc
- In the last ch 2 space work
- 3 dc
- Ch 2
- 1 dc
- Turn
For Row 3
- Ch 4
- Work 3 dc in each side space across until you reach the center corner
- In the center corner space work
- 3 dc
- Ch 2
- 3 dc
- Continue working 3 dc in each side space
- In the last space work
- 3 dc
- Ch 2
- 1 dc
- Turn
Row 4
- Repeat row 3
- Keep the same structure
- 3 dc in each side space
- 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the center corner
- 3 dc, ch 2, 1 dc at the end space
- Fasten off and weave in ends
Layout and Assembly
Motif Layout
- Arrange your 20 full squares and 6 half squares on a flat surface
- Position them to match your intended top shape
- Keep the half squares at the top edges to shape the neckline and arm edges
- Use a mirrored layout so left and right sides match
Fit Check Before Joining
- Hold the layout up to your body or pin it to a fitted shirt
- Check that the width covers the bust comfortably
- Check that the height reaches the desired length
- If you want more length, add another row of full squares at the bottom
- If you want more width, add a full square to each side section
Joining Method
Use a flat slip stitch join.
Horizontal Joins
- Place two motifs side by side with right sides facing up
- Insert your hook into the back loop only of the first motif edge stitch
- Insert your hook into the back loop only of the second motif edge stitch
- Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook to make a sl st
- Continue slip stitching through back loops only along the full edge
- Repeat until all motifs in each row are joined horizontally
Vertical Joins
- Align the joined rows with right sides facing up
- Repeat the same join method through back loops only of both layers
- Slip stitch along each seam to connect the rows
- Continue until the full body piece is assembled
Border and Finishing
Border Round 1
- Attach yarn at any point along the outer edge
- Work 1 sc evenly around the entire perimeter
- At corners, work 2 sc in the corner space if needed to keep the edge flat
- Along side edges, place sc into the edges of dc clusters evenly
- Join with a sl st to the first sc
For Border Round 2
- Ch 1
- Work sl st in the back loops only around the entire edge
- Keep your slip stitches relaxed so the edge does not tighten too much
- Join with a sl st to the first slip stitch
- Fasten off and weave in ends
Straps and Lace Up Back
Making the Straps
- Choose the top corner points where you want straps to begin
- Attach yarn at the chosen point on the border
- Create a single crochet foundation chain directly from the edge
- Continue until the strap is long enough for tying and lacing
- Use the strap length as a guide
- The example strap length is about 120 cm
- Repeat for the other side so both straps match
Optional Strap Reinforcement
- If you want thicker straps, work back along the strap with sc
- Keep stitches even so the strap does not twist
Lace Up Back
- Thread the straps through the back openings of the top
- Cross the straps as you lace to form a criss cross design
- Adjust tightness until the top feels secure
- Tie the straps in a bow or knot at the bottom or top
Customization Ideas
- Add 1 extra round to each full square for a less cropped fit
- Add another row of motifs at the bottom for a longer top
- Use a smaller hook for a firmer fabric and more coverage
- Use cotton yarn for structure or acrylic for softness and drape
- Add a picot edge after the slip stitch round for a decorative finish
- Add removable ties at the sides for extra adjustability
Finishing and Care
- Weave in all ends securely along the wrong side
- Block your top lightly so squares lay flat and seams relax
- Wash gently and lay flat to dry to maintain shape
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